An unsettled night’s sleep. I seemed more aware of the noise of the overhead metro and the shuffling departures of two roommates, presumably to catch flights, added to the disruption. Accepting the situation I rose early and finally got this blog completely up to date before venturing out to find some breakfast. A steak and egg bagel hit the spot very well along with a lethally strong coffee. I’ve always been sceptical about the alleged powers of coffee to promote an adrenaline rush but no longer. It has happened too often over the last few days.
We assembled to discover that Adrian, our young German was leaving the tour as his mother was seriously ill and in hospital. So after saying farewell it was a party of only five that set out for Milwaukee. This part of the journey proved uneventful as the sides of the highway was largely tree-lined preventing any views. Group democracy determined that we visit the Harley Davidson museum and, even though not massively impressed by the array of machines I found the museum well set out and I enjoyed both the old news propaganda relating to Harley’s contribution to the war effort in 1939-1945 and the account of how the company was saved by a management buy-out in the early 1980s. It seems to illustrate that if the management of a company believe in their product sufficiently, it is actually possible to compete in global markets. I really feel that, in many cases, British Industry gave in too easily. One thing I did enjoy was the river side pathway that went around the back of the site; paved, lit and imaginatively planted it seemed to do a good job of making an old industrial area accessible to the public.
From here we progressed to the Milwaukee Public Market, which in many ways, was like a brighter and better presented Borough Market. A range of food stalls offered cuisine from around the world and thief wines, occupying a central spot offered a range of wine wines that might be sampled with food from anywhere in the market. I chose Jimbo’s Italian bean soup from one stall washed down with an Argentinian Malbec. So far, the gastronomic highlight of the tour.
Back in the van we set out for a long four hour drive across Wisconsin heading west on the Highway 94, then northwest from Madison. The countryside was soon undulating (glacial drift) agricultural land cropping mainly soya and maize, like Ohio and Illinois but with the farms seemingly better kept and with buildings in better order. The characteristic groupings of clusters of farm buildings with Dutch style barns and silos occurred frequently along the road. Beyond Tomah and out onto the Highway 90 the proportion of woodland seemed to increase and the landscape became more hilly with individual conical hills breaking up the scenery and woodland occupying the higher ground and ridges.
We finally reached the Mississippi at La Crosse, an impressive quarter of a mile wide even this far north, and crossed from Wisconsin into Minnesota to follow the river into the Prairie Island camp ground at Winona. We were just in time to catch the sunset over the Mississippi before pitching camp right next to the river. Manuel and Lindy produced tacos for dinner and rugged up against the cold and persistent mosquitoes were gathered around the campfire until it was time to turn in. For the first time I slept right inside my sleeping bag and used my thermal vest so now every piece of equipment I brought with me has been used!
The main north south railroad follows this route and I counted one train consisting of 65 units, mostly double containers; the sound of train sirens has been with us all evening and continues even as I write this at 11.50 pm hunched in the dark of my tent with a torch tucked under my chin. If I could touch type properly this wouldn’t be necessary but I can’t. Whilst in the Public Market I bought some India Pale Ale and have to report that, despite my previous (and evidence based) conviction that American beer is largely undrinkable, there is some excellent stuff to be had. I have now enjoyed several excellent brews.
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