A long drive meant another early start and it was my turn to spend some time on the back seat. The flattish countryside, mainly yellowing grass and sagebrush induced a soporific effect even though ‘nodding donkeys’ and the occasional dissected low mesa like features provided some variety I was soon asleep. I awoke an hour later to see the snow-capped Bighorn Mountains on the horizon. In places huge irrigation systems were helping to raise fodder crops which brought an almost surreal greenness to the countryside. Further evidence of the increased altitude was provided by the existence of soil terracettes and solifluxion lobes! (Only the geographers will understand this).
A long climb up rewarded us with fantastic views and we lunched by a dam surrounded by lodgepole pines which have replaced the spruce of South Dakota. The pine beetle is still leaving it’s mark here though. Having gained altitude we drove across a rolling plateau with the grass showing a definite browner/yellowy colour. In many of the depressions and along possible watercourses a variety of shrubs clustered giving an autumn colour effect at ground level. Soon a huge descent down the gorge cut by the Shell Creek. Stunning panoramas opened up as the variety of dolomite and limestones revealed a range of colour reminiscent of the Grand Canyon.
Down on lower ground we still had 68 miles to reach Cody but this seemed to be quickly accomplished – I slept most of the way and we pulled onto the camp site at about 4 pm. Once camp was established we set off to check out Cody which, unlike Deadwood was a town going about it’s business without trying to cash in on it’s link to Buffalo Bill in such an ostentatious manner.
My mission to find a new lens cap proved fruitless and proves that Americans don’t think in terms of walking anywhere. Directions to ‘Radio Shack’ were down the road there, around the corner and just up the hill. I asked if it was far and the reply was “No, just up the hill.” A mile later I found the shop but no lens cap. I should have asked if the distance was walkable!
At 6 pm we prepared for the Wild West shootout in front of the Irma Hotel. Traffic was blocked off and a fake cowboy town set up. Firstly we were told that the group performs regularly for local charities and set about selling posters for $3. Many didn’t want the posters but paid the $3 but a surprising amount didn’t contribute at this point. They may have done so later. Then they identified the oldest person present and gave them a free poster. Then anybody currently serving in the military, fire service or police were asked to identify themselves. Nobody. Then anybody who had served was asked to show themselves. Applause and public thanks for their service. Then anybody whose offspring or spouses were currently serving were asked to show themselves and applauded. Finally we all stood for the National Anthem, which seemed to go on for several verses although not so many people were actually singing it. To me, this seemed a little over the top especially as a precursor to the very amateurish mayhem that was shortly enacted. Basically the bad boys came to town, caused trouble, broke out of jail and ended up with a noisy shoot out.
From here we went to the best steak restaurant in town, Proud Cut. There was a long wait but Rick, managed to use his charm to shorten it. From here we went for drinkies in the Silver Dollar Saloon, popularised by Buffalo Bill. Back to the restaurant for a long wait, sat at tables where the wait was even longer. Apparently, students have returned to college so the place was short-handed although the number of diners was still high. Finally, well past my normal meal time we all waded into enormous steaks of various types; mine was a T-Bone. I have to say that I have never eaten a steak so tender and tasty. I managed it all.
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