At 2 pm transport arrived to take the hardy souls to see the Pacaya volcano. We all thought that it was one of the three prominent peaks around the town but we actually headed back towards Panama City to find it. The road was decidedly tortuous in places and a potholed in places so the van had to weave a path that constantly took it to the wrong side of the road. All part of the fun of driving in Central America. We picked up a guide, Cesar and soon found the going tough. The volcano erupted only last May so the paths were still coated with loose ash that made for difficult walking. Although many of the crops growing at the time were destroyed by the ash falls it was clear that nature was very quickly re-establishing itself with a variety of plants emerging through the black ash and cinders.
Apparently a waiver has to be signed to climb to the crater so we were not able to do this but Cesar led us up and along an older eruption crater rim where we got a superb view of the summit and were able to see steam still rising from the rocks in places. High up we were able to see the whole of Guatemala City laid out behind us as well as the three peaks around Antigua.
As the sun set the landscape took on a magical quality that made for a perfect day out. The descent was a mad scramble running down the steep and loose cinders until we were able to find a more conventional path.
The adventure ended in darkness, finding our way by torchlight. The evening was spent enjoying a final meal as a group before most called it a day fairly early given the scheduled 4.50 am departure for Honduras.
All assembled on time despite a distinct lack of sleep for some. Poor Isabella was still feeling the effects of her homestay and looked decidedly unwell. The six departing members were replaced by six new ones; two Americans, three Brits and a Dane. The new guide, Andres seemed to be very together and his tourist bus arrived on time – a good start! The aim was to beat the traffic in Guatemala City and this was duly accomplished without fuss. With the sun rising we were rewarded with a superb view back over the city, shrouded under a layer of low cloud/fog and with the sun lighting up the volcanoes behind. Once again, much of the journey seemed to be a climb but now we were definitely crossing much drier terrain with fewer trees and less luxuriant vegetation. There were lots of landslides from the recent heavy rains and in places they have not yet been entirely cleared away.
Eventually we stopped for breakfast and I strolled away from the place to try and take some pictures. I’m not sure why I haven’t commented on this before but the access to every village since Mexico City has been guarded buy a series of speed ramps so steep that all vehicles have to slow right down to cross them. Here’s an example!
The border crossing went without a hitch and in a decidedly relaxed manner – not like leaving Mexico and by the early afternoon we were booking into a lovely little hotel in Copan. We had been led to believe that the standard of hotels would go downhill after Guatemala so this was a pleasant surprise although I am still sharing with two others. I think that single travellers are subsidising the comfort of the couples. Perhaps Intrepid should look at this. Since then a leisurely afternoon visiting the Cash Machine, catching up on e-mail and my bank account, and enjoying a coffee in a café with a view of the surrounding hills with the Doors playing in the background. Not such a hard life, really!
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