RAIN IN COSTA RICA

What do you do in a place like La Fortuna when the cloud base is on the pavement and the drizzle periodically turns into heavy rain?  Yes, you play crazy golf and watch English football on the TV. 

Not a day of major tourist activity but one that ended with a level of restaurant service unparalleled so far in Central America.  We set out en masse for a place called the Lava Lounge but I was the first there by a distance; I think shopping opportunities distracted the others.   Seeing that the place was virtually full I asked for a table for 13 and the man on the door indicated that we could go in a sort of annex.  I helped him move a few tables and, by the time the others had arrived he had the tables laid.  Drinks were ordered and promptly served, table dips served and the food ordered and served speedily.  When people were ready to go they simply had to tell the man on the till and settle up.  Easy!  It hasn’t always been so straightforward.

We were due to leave at 12.30 the next day so I decided to walk up to the big waterfall, Los Cascades de La Fortuna.  Leaving town it became evident that the place catered for high end as well as mass tourism.  Some very expensive and well-manicured apartments lined the road. 

A huge range of plants and shrubs, many of which can be found at home but don’t thrive so well, were on display.  Similarly there was an extensive and colourful range of birds.  Even the chickens seemed brighter than English ones. 

There was no provision for walkers but there was a concrete road for people to drive there; 4 kilometres and uphill all the way.  I took a waterproof but it was soon far too uncomfortable to wear and I ended up carrying it.  Our hotel literature suggested that entrance to the park was free but that a donation would be expected.  Not true!  They expected $10!  The falls themselves were impressive as the recent rains ensured an absolute torrent of water. 

Needless to say, as I left the place the sun came out and shone pretty much all the way to San José.  Everywhere were signs of a more developed agriculture with a wide range of crops.  Most towns seemed busy and the people out and about appeared to be going about their business with a clear sense of purpose.

Costa Rica certainly milks the tourist dollar very effectively and I’m not sure whether this makes sound business sense or whether it is ruthlessly exploitative.  Most visitors to a place like La Fortuna arrive in tour groups and have only a limited time there.  All the hotels recommend activities and arrange transport to and from them.  All such activities cost prices comparable with anywhere in the world whilst the price of food in restaurants matches those in the USA.  In fact, it would be far easier to eat cheaply in the States.  Should we expect things to be cheaper simply because a country is less economically developed?

I’m loath to say that San José itself was like any large city but it is like any large city and rather less ramshackle than many visited on this trip.  It is however, surprisingly cold and I had to wear the jumper I’ve been carrying all these weeks.  So now everything in my bag has been used at least once!

LA FORTUNA - ARENAL VOLCANO

For once a civilized departure time and a journey that proved relatively brief.  Loaded onto two mini, mini buses we lurched our way back along the unsurfaced road en route for La Fortuna and the Arenal volcano.  Having served my time on the back seat on the way to Monteverde, I grabbed a front seat today, only to find that there was not enough space to put my feet onto the floor.  An hour later the driver stopped for a break and moved the seat back to a position where those behind had no room but we in the front had plenty.  Oh for the middle way!

Hard to comment on the landscape as we didn’t get to see much of it.  Clearly the rainy season is not yet over in Costa Rica.  Everything was very green, in places cattle attached themselves to impossibly steep slopes and elsewhere the slopes themselves seemed to be on the move.  Geographers should be able to explain this. 

After two hours of this jolting we decamped into a small ferry which took us along Lake Arenal and in turn, deposited us at a landing stage where it was a case of packing us into another van for the final run into La Fortuna. 

Contrary to predictions, the accommodation has gradually been getting better and the La Fortuna hotel is very comfortable.  For the first time in my life I get a hotel room with a view of an active volcano and this is what I get to see!

Given the poor weather I settled for an exploration of the town which seems to be entirely dependent on tourism for a living.  however, there was a school band engaged in lusty in somewhat inaccurate rehearsal of Christmas carols.  It seemed strange to hear what I think was "Deck the Halls" in such a setting.

Remove the restaurants, souvenir shops and places selling various tours and there would only be a handful of buildings.  The prices for most of the activities seem extortionate to me and even the adrenaline junkies amongst our numbers seem determined to limit their exposure to ‘fun’.  Determined to get some proper exercise I set out for a run and on finding a running track to circuit, the heavens opened.  At least it isn’t cold.  The light is fading now and Arenal is still hidden in cloud.  There seems to be nobody signed up for the volcano hike tomorrow so I don’t know what I’m going to do.

THE CLOUD FOREST

A day where most of the Intrepid Group live up to the name and get their adrenaline fix by swinging from high wires and jumping off improbably high objects.  For me the adrenaline comes from coffee and a visit to an organic coffee plantation.  Obviously yesterday’s climb into the ‘hills’ was deceptive as the plantation is at over 1,200 metres.  Global warming is an issue here, as increased rainfall and humidity over the last few years has led to a dramatic increase in fungus and rust which shortens the lives and even kill the plants. 

Chemicals could solve the problems but then they would no longer be organic.  At present they survive by diversification of production; sugar cane, bananas, plantains, oranges and limes all being grown on the same land. 

I wanted to buy a lot but there’s no way I’d get it home without the bag breaking, so a small bag for Christmas will have to do.

The entire town of Monteverde seems to be set up to exploit the forest environment for tourism.  In many ways it resembles an alpine type resort with a quality of accommodation to match. 

Here, at Historias Lodge, even re-cyling is encouraged with a range of bins for different classes of rubbish.  Whilst eco-tourism may be an environmentally superior way to exploit natural resources, I wonder where it fits in the scheme of things when prices are pitched at a level that might be considered extreme even in the USA.  Should tourism be the main plank of a country’s economic development or should it be part of a broader strategy?  One benefit of protecting the environment is that I got the chance to photograph some humming birds close up but this was the best I could do.

COSTA RICA

An e-mail from Colin (don’t worry if you don’t know him) tells me that I haven’t posted a dog photo yet.  I know he likes dogs but he could be reminding me that stray dogs are a part of life in Central America that this Blog has missed so far.  There have certainly been lots of them everywhere and although they are mostly very poor specimens, they must serve a purpose in ensuring that the piles of rubbish contain no food waste.  Of course, having now entered Costa Rica, stray dogs are proving very elusive.  Having arrived safely in Monte Verde I have scoured the mean streets for hours and this is the best I can do!

Another early start brought us to a quaint little ferry at 6am in time for sunrise.  The ferry itself was the first I’ve been on where it was possible to get to the front of the boat so I spent much of the journey there. 

 From here we took taxis to the border and achieved another crossing with only minimal disruption.  Having bought a ticket at the first booth to leave the country, the next person to check it told me that the date was wrong.  The advantage of being in a tour group meant that Andrès dealt with this.  Without him I’d probably still be arguing the toss at the border!

Costa Rica is the richest country of those visited and these differences soon began to manifest themselves although, at first, nothing seemed to have changed.  The vegetation seemed to reflect a drier climate but there were still mainly cattle in the fields.  However, before long the land became much flatter, irrigation channels were evident and large scale arable farming took over.  Crops which appeared to be cereals were growing and in places were being harvested by modern looking combines.  Large circular bales produced a landscape that might even be found in Norfolk. 

Large modern processing plants and even industrial factories were protected by very modern fences.  There seemed to be fewer people walking along the roads and the roads themselves were of better quality and not obstructed by random livestock.  Everywhere the houses were built to a higher standard and seemed better cared for whilst houses occupying larger plots and of a more modern design were far more common.

Eventually, we turned off the main road and headed into the mountains towards Monte Verde.  The hills rose and the cloud base fell so soon we were both on a dirt track and in the clouds.  The hillsides reminded me of the Pennines in Derbyshire except for the giveaway of palm trees in places and for the first time, I saw hydrangeas as household plants.  As we descended on the other side of the mountains plantings of coffee became evident and after an hour and a half of bladder torturing travel we arrived at the Historias Lodge in Monte Verde.  This is a place very much set up to exploit tourists and tomorrow I shall join the exploited.  However, for tonight we have a supply of wine and have located a decent pizza place for the evening meal.

NICARAGUA - FISHING AND VOLCANOES

Wednesday already and our brief time in Nicaragua is drawing quickly to a close.  On the Monday, given the trauma of the journey to get there, I opted for a quiet day in Granada itself.  Most of the morning was spent walking around and enjoying the streets, the churches and the bustling market. 

Most of the electrical retailers knew what I wanted in terms of an adaptor but nobody could oblige with the correct product.  Security seems less obvious here than in other places visited; even the guards at the cash machines stay inside rather than parade their weapons in front.  The main cathedral was both simple and colourful whilst the views from the bell tower displayed the town to great effect. 

Having bought some post cards I walked down to the lake to sit in the sun and write them but soon attracted the attention of a beggar so felt it best to leave.  Horses are widely used as beasts of burden here as well as to pull carriages for the tourists. 

Some of the afternoon was spent at a café and the group returned to eat in the evening.  There can’t be many places where it is possible to eat in the street, wearing only a tee shirt and shorts at ten in the evening with no need for additional clothing.

Christmas has arrived early here and everywhere is getting decorated.  The roundabouts in Managua all had large cone shaped light displays whilst the hotel already had a tree to greet us. 

It seems strange that the decorative décor is firmly north European with holly and the ivy!  Opposite the hotel, re-roofing was in progress.  I’ve often wondered how these U-shaped tiles are fixed all over Europe and now I had the answer.  Nothing more than a piece of wire holds the entire column of clay tiles to the main roof beam.

The next day we assembled early for an upgrade transport to San Juan del Sur, Andres’ home town.  After breakfast, four of us left to try our hand at fishing.  The haul was disappointingly small but it was very pleasant out on the water, especially when we could see land under a rain cloud! 

The stiff breeze kept up all day so when we arrived at Lake Nicaragua, the second largest freshwater lake in the world, to catch the ferry across Lake Nicaragua to Ometepe Island, the waves were crashing over the sea wall and a rough crossing seemed likely. 

In the event, the vessel proved remarkably stable and no ill effects were experienced by any of the group.  The island itself, dominated by the twin volcanoes, Conception and Maderas, looked an idyllic destination in the setting sun. 

I had hoped to climb Conception, a challenging 8 hour walk but now it is not possible to do this without the services of a guide and at a cost of $25 so plans had to be changed.

The accommodation at Finca Venecia is very private, much like Tortuga at Rio Dulce and, like Tortuga, the restaurant closed at 7.30 with the bar following it at 9 pm.  Beers were made to last and a pack of cards helped the evening’s entertainment. Our now familiar triple room is comfortable enough and the shower provides plenty of hot water; something of a luxury this.  It even has it’s own gecko, which helps to keep the bugs down.

Wednesday has been another quiet day before we head off into Costa Rica.  Some brave souls have headed off to explore the island but most haven’t strayed too far.  I walked out along the road for a couple of miles and in so doing, managed a lot of photos.  The houses here are very basic but most seem to support the government and the red and black flag of the Nicaraguan Revolution can still be found in many places. 

As ever I photographed the crops and cows which seem to have free reign here and cross the road at will.  A couple were sporting a Y-shaped branch around their necks.  I can’t imagine what this is for. 

I came across sorghum for the first time.  Farmers are now being encouraged to grow this but there is some resistance as it is traditionally the ‘poor mans’ crop.  I found a quarry where they were excavating the volcanic cinder and a field where blocks of lava reminded one of the impact an eruption would have.

There were a number of workers in a field of what seemed like weeds but a little later I realised that they were harvesting melons.  We were told to look out for the local magpies, with their distinctive blue colouring and I even found some of these.  The triumph was a bullock cart.  I’d seen plenty from the coach but thought there was no way I’d get a picture of my own; I was wrong.

Just to rub it in about my decision not to climb the volcano, the cloud lifted mid afternoon to offer the following scene.

WELCOME TO NICARAGUA

A shit day if ever there was one!  A 6.15am start was dictated by a bus that might arrive any time between 6.45 and 7.15.  Given the lack of sleep caused by the traffic thundering up the hill outside my room I was already ragged by the time we started.  In the event the bus eventually left at 8.30 so we spent at least an hour and a half standing with our bags by a main road being harassed by beggars for the whole of the time.  Just before we left, the two most persistent tangled and fell into the road fighting.  The younger punched the older one in the face three times before running off.  Then, as we stowed our bags, Mike had someone attempting to get into his day bag.  (Assault victim in middle in blue top)

So far, so good!  I had a good seat in the middle of the bus and the air conditioning was effective enough for me to wear the fleece that has seen little use recently.  There seemed to be major road construction taking place that would eventually produce a major dual carriage highway but which slowed us down a little.  As the road took us higher and higher pine trees and grasses seemed to replace the more tropical vegetation previously experienced.  Eventually we descended to the sizeable town of Tegucigalpa, where the more familiar Honduran vegetation reasserted itself.  From here things went downhill fast.  New passengers were insisting on claiming the seats as numbered and Andres was forced to redistribute the group.  Having stated that it didn’t matter what seat one had so long as one had a seat I was hardly in a position to complain when I ended up in the back row next to the toilet.  Not only this but I was not at the window so couldn’t see where we were going  but the A/C didn’t work here and my seat only operated in the ‘fully down’ position.  This is where I spent the rest of the journey.  Given that the coach company was trying to make up for lost time there were no meal breaks and the only food seen were some basic maize biscuits that I bought from a seller who was allowed on board.  Major road works slowed us down and, having climbed to great heights, the descent was slowed by the lack of a road in places as it had apparently parted company from the rest of the road some time fairly recently.  The scenery here was breathtakingly beautiful but no photo opportunity was available.

Eventually, we reached the border with Nicaragua.  The good part was that the steward on the coach gathered all our passports, customs declarations and money for entrance/exit payments.    

(Money changing at the border)

The bad part was that on the Nicaraguan side we had to unload our luggage, line up and take it through customs. 

 Here, after much waiting, I was required to open my bags.  Do I look like a smuggler?  The upshot of this was that I left my adaptor plug behind and, having found nothing interesting, I had to repack my bag.  Apparently, Jurgen observed that one passenger put his bags back on the coach without taking them through customs at all!  The journey through Nicaragua proved uneventful.  One hignlight was a clearly active volcano, Momotombo and I managed a photo of this.

There seemed to be large land holdings behind the roadside shacks and, in places, sizeable processing plants were visible.  Palm trees, both coconut and oil were the main plants and sugar cane was everywhere.  Eventually we pulled into Managua and transferred to a private bus to the hotel in Granada.  Five minutes to wash and Andres led us to the major points of interest before arriving at a restaurant which deal with us in an uncharacteristically speedy and effective manner.  Beers were produced promptly, bread was brought to the table, all were given a small salad and then the food ordered arrived.  With some relief most of us were in bed well before midnight.

LEAVING HONDURAS

A slow start on our second day at Roatan and heavy tropical rain, so by the time I made it into town for breakfast it was really lunchtime.  Gangs of workmen are in the process of installing a new sewerage system so much of the main street is being dug up.  It must be difficult pouring concrete and the like with so much water about.  At least the pumps seemed to be keeping up with the influx of water.

The rain proved fairly persistent but I managed a couple of hours sitting on one of the landing stages getting a filtered sun tan.  The day rather petered out with only five of us dining at the Lily’s Pond restaurant which came highly recommended and didn’t disappoint.
The following day found us tramping through the drying streets at 5.30 am in order to catch our ferry back to the mainland.  The journey was far less bumpy than the inward leg and I enjoyed the early morning sun up on deck.

This time we only had one bus to deal with and we made excellent time to Comayagua, reaching it well before Andres’ predicted 4pm.  The bus seats were distinctly odd and it is hard to imagine what size or shape of human they are designed to accommodate.  The seat backs trend forwards towards the top so a cricked neck is almost inevitable.  The road was excellent, as it has been throughout Honduras with the exception of a modern bridge which had been washed out.  A ten minute walk with full pack brought us to the Hotel Emperador which actually boasted air conditioning.  However, the electrical arrangements were as idiosyncratic as anywhere else we’ve been.  The air con plug was taped directly to live wires whilst there were power sockets immediately above my shower and water squirted into it directly.  It couldn’t have been live; could it?  I think I’m getting desperate for things to write about now.

The main square was attractive but there’s not much else going on here save traffic noise all night punctuated by what I am sure was gunfire.  I’ve heard plenty of random fireworks at all hours but this was something different.