Tuesday, 4 October 2011

DAY 33 - The Grand Canyon

Like Yosemite, The Grand Canyon is set up with a free shuttle service to eliminate traffic from the main attractions.  Other than Rangers and such like on official business, the only cars were linked to people with Disability passes.  With the others, I rose at 5.15am to catch the shuttle to the visitor centre where the sunrise could be enjoyed.  A skein of cloud to the east delayed the first sight of the sun but the light gradually intensified to pick out colours on the Canyon walls as well as to offer a changing colouration of the sky.  Many photos were taken; I hope some turn out to be good.

Daylight established, we headed back to camp where Sam had prepared a cooked breakfast so set us up for the rigours ahead.  Boots on, loaded with water and using a sock to replace my broken lens cap, I was ready for action.  We returned to the Visitor Centre by shuttle before transferring to the Orange Line which took us to Yaki Point and the start of the South Kaibab Trail.  Hiking in the Canyon is a unique experience as you start off by going down but then a return climb is necessary.  The general advice is to allow double the time for return.  The trailheads all carry warning notices advising people not to attempt the walk all the way to the river and back in a day.  Every year significant numbers become unwell from trying and some even die. 


We settled for Cedar Ridge, a 3-4 hour round trip although Sam ventured further.  The descent  played havoc on my knees, whilst the return did the same for heart and lungs.  Even so, I completed the trip in 2¾ hours and the girls did it in less.  My Yosemite experience was repeated with many welcome conversations that provided an excuse to stop for a rest.  Despite the exhaustion induced the effort was entirely worthwhile as the trail took us 1½ miles into the canyon as well as over 1,000 feet down.  Every twist in the trail offered a new and constantly changing panorama as cloud brought continual variation in the level of light.

Back at the top the Visitor Centre proved to be rather disappointing compared with others but it is new and clearly not yet ‘up to speed’.  I returned to the Village to resolve the postcard problem and enjoyed an excellent bowl of chilli for some $4; the bargain of the whole trip!   Restored to full vigour I set out for the Western Section and all the most famous Viewpoints which offer a sight of the Colorado itself.  Cloud seemed to be building and many took the warnings of the bus driver to stay on the bus if they didn’t want to get wet.  This meant that for much of the time I had the whole canyon to myself.  I started at the furthest point, Hermit’s Rest and walked back to Pima Point, returned to the bus and got off at Pima Point before walking the rest of the way back to the route transfer bus stop. 

Despite the fact that the paths are largely maintained, have no great gradients to negotiate and the distance was barely 4 miles in total it was a somewhat footsore Jim that arrived at the bus stop at the same time as a bus!  However, the stupendous views made the torture worthwhile and there seemed to be plenty of birdlife, none of which I could identify.
Getting off the bus at the campsite I found 8 Elk grazing happily. 

There seemed to be no big antler variety so I pressed on to the campsite to take a well- earned shower and deal with my laundry.  Outside the landry blocke were some prong horned deer, fully equipped with prongs but unfortunately I was not similarly in possession of a camera

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